Saturday, February 1, 2014

Quito- Old Town

Old Town, it's like being in Spain all over again. All the colonial structures are huddled within a 1-2 mile radius. The churches are a spectacular sight and just when you think you've had enough, you encounter another. We started in Plaza Grande, home to palacio de gobierno y un catedral lindo. Just a few blocks away is La Iglesia de Santo Domingo, which is rather appealing given it's asymmetric appearance unlike the ornate churches with towers that mirror each other. La Iglesia de San Francisco was another sight not worth missing, and finally we were within arms reach of La CompaƱia. La CompaƱia is small compared to most of the other churches, but it's contents are beyond comparison. With tons and tons (and this is not an exaggerated statement) of gold plated walls, statues, alters and just about anything they could smother in gold, this place is a true treasure. In fact, the large room can make any healthy person appear a little jaundice secondary to the reflection of the tesoro (treasure). The yellow tint gleams in every corner and upon entry, you can't help but stand frozen for a moment to appreciate it. The walls are carefully sculpted so that not a single surface is liso (smooth). Gregorion Chant plays quietly in the background and there are several rooms that break off from the main one for further exploration. Mi parte favorito was La Basilica del Voto Nacional, quite the climb to the north end of old town, but worth the effort. The Basilica is likely the tallest structure making its views priceless, but also making its ascent frightful. And that my friends, is an understatement. The first opportunity to become fearful is walking the plank, or rather traversing a long sodden bridge that sits atop the meeting corners of the roof. The wood creaks and sways and all faces are focused. Then the first set of steps presents itself. It's a rusted ladder with narrow steps and grimy rails, but nonetheless you grip for dear life. Then the second set of steps is far worse and with each light breeze you recite a prayer silently in your mind. But then you've ascended and the view erases all memories of fear... That is until you have to make the even worse climb down. Quito from a bird's eye view is gorgeous. It's sprawls in a valley and even begins to encroach on the surrounding mountains. Churches and colorful multistory building are evident in every direction, but beyond the hustle and bustle of a city is towering green trees and a soft unobscuring view of the clouds. Panecillo is in the distance, where an angel is shackled to the ground by a snake. Quito, home to elaborate constructions of Catholicism, home to a rich culture with indigenous presence, and a place where I first enjoyed encebollado (or delicious fish soup).

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